– simple shrub propagation
This is possibly the simplest method of propagating
Deciduous species are best layered in
autumn or winter; evergreens in autumn or spring.
Select a non-flowering branch from the current
season’s growth which is flexible enough
to touch the ground when bent.
Where the underside
touches the soil, make a cut halfway through to
form a tongue.
Bury this section 2-3in in the
soil, peg down firmly with a U-shaped pin, and
cover the split section with compost.
growing tip exposed and, if possible, stake it
A flat stone placed over the buried section
will help to hold it in position, keep it cool
and preserve moisture.
In about a year’s
time, the wounded section should have taken root,
and it can then be severed from the parent plant
roots and rhizomes
Most herbaceous perennial plants, such as lupins,
can be propagated by division, either in spring
or late autumn.
clumps and divide into sections.
If the root clump
is large and overgrown, divide it after lifting
by thrusting two digging forks back to back into
the centre and levering them apart.
tough woody crowns may have to be split with a
sharp, strong-bladed knife.
Dust the cut surfaces
with sulphur to prevent fungal growth.
pieces with healthy roots and strong growth buds.
Replant immediately in well-prepared ground.
Some plants, such as irises, produce swollen,
horizontal stems called rhizomes.
when they become overcrowded, and use a sharp
knife to cut them apart.
Select young, healthy
rhizomes with a fan of leaves attached. Plant
them with the rhizomes facing south – they
thrive in sun – and just visible on the
surface of the soil.
Water lilies have thick rhizomes; in spring, lift
overcrowded clumps out of the water, clean, and
divide with a sharp knife, selecting the younger
growths for replanting.
Each one must have several
strong buds and roots.
Increasing bulbous plants
Both bulbs and corms reproduce by means of small
offsets – known as bulbils and cormlets
– which form around the sides of the parent
bulb or corm during the growing season.
bulbs before they become overcrowded and flower
Lift the bulbs after their leaves have
died back and they are dormant.
Remove the bulbils
and grow them for 2-3 years in a nursery bed until
they reach flowering size.
Then plant them in
their permanent position.
Snowdrops are lifted
and divided immediately after flowering, when
the foliage is still green.
bulbils, but can also be propagated by using the
fleshy scales of the bulb.
bulbs are dormant, pull off a few outer scales
and place them in a moist, peat-based compost
in a polythene bag.
Shake the bag to ensure the
scales are fully covered, secure it, and place
it in an airing cupboard or a propagator.
tiny bulbils have formed, plant in pots or trays
for planting out in 1-3 years.
Some lilies form
bulbils in the axils of the leaves.
in late summer and sow immediately, in pots or
boxes in a cold frame or in nursery rows outside.
Plant out in their final positions in 3-4 years.
CORMS AND CORMLETS.
new corms at the bottom of the flowering stems.
These are retained
and the old ones discarded when the corms are
lifted after flowering.
The old corms also develop cormlets which can
be stored in a cool, dry place until spring (gladioli)
or autumn (crocuses)
and then planted in potting compost.
Grow on the cormlets
until autumn (or late spring for crocuses), then
lift and store them for planting the following
spring (or autumn for crocuses).
They reach flowering
size in 1-3 years.